Encroachment and Revocable Permit - 1425 E. LaSalle Ave

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11. Add the door glazing and reinstall the door after finishing the structure. the roof peak and overhang the side panels equally on both sides (photo 6). Fasten each roof deck panel to the side panels with four VA -inch screws. Install the Roofing Cut the six roofing boards to length. Rip -cut two of the boards to width at 43/a inches, ripping about U i nch from the top (narrow) edge of the beveled siding board. The ripped boards will go at the top of the roof. Apply a wavy bead of construction adhesive to the back side (smooth face) of one of the full -width boards. Position it at the botrom of one of The roof deck pieces so the roofing overhangs the bottom face of The cave trim by about 1/e inch. Nail the roofing board to the roof deck with three pairs of 1-inch siding nails, with one pair about I inch from each end and one pair in the center. If the nails cause the wood to split, drill pilot holes for the nails. Apply a straight bead of construction adhesive near the top and bottom edges of a second roofing boar[], Place the board on the rooFdeckso it overlaps the first board by about 13/4 inches (leaving about 33A inches of the lower board exposed). Nail the second board with three pairs of nails, as with the first board, but make sure the lower nail in each pair goes through the first board. Apply adhesive near the top and bottom edges of one of the ripped boards, position it so it is Hush with the top edge of the roordeck, and nail it as with the second board (photo 7). Repeat the same process to install the roofing boards on the other side of the roof. Add the Roof Gable Trim Cut the four pieces of roof gable trim 'to length, mitering the top ends at 36 degrees. Apply glue to the side edges of the roof deck panels and outside ends of the roof cave trim. Also glue the mitered edges of the gable trim. Position the gable trim in pairs at each end of the roof, joining the miters together at the peak.'Ihe gable trim at the rear cave ofthe roofshould be Hush with the bottom edge and front face of the 11/z-inch-wide cave trim. At the front cave of the roof, the gable trim will overhang the cop and bottom edge of the r/e-inch-wide cave trim (photo 8). Fasten each piece of gable trim to the roof deck (not the roofing boards) with three 11/4-inch finish nails. Cut and Install the Roof Cap Tie roof cap is cut from the remaining piece of 2 x 3 board (leftover from the front corner trim). It has a V-shaped groove cut into its bottom face that runs along the entire length of the board. You can cur the groove with a small circular saw and a straightedge guide (or use a rablesaw, if you have one).'Ihis is a tricky cut and is nor recommended For beginners to try with a full-size circular saw. As an alternative, you can make 36-degree bevel cuts on two 3/4-inch-thick boards and use waterproofwood glue to join them to create the V shape. Set the circular saw blade to make a 3(-degree bevel cur, 11/z inches deep. Position the 2 x 3 on one of its lWinch- wide edges, and set up a straightedge guide with a scrap board to support the saw (see Making Straight Cuts on page 31). Make the first cut from the corner of the 2 x 3 to its center. Rotate the board end -for -end and make the second cut to meet the first cut at the center of the board's thickness (photo 9). Cut the roof cap to length. Sand the four corners of the board to create a slight chamfer (beveled edge) for a finished look using sandpaper and a sanding block. (You can also use a tablesaw to cut the corner chamfers.) Apply a bead of construction adhesive to both sides of the V-groove. Position the cap at the roof peak so it is Hush with the outside faces of the roof gable trim at both ends. Drill Sib -inch pilot holes and nail the cap to the roof with four 29z-inch finish nails, angling the nails so they don't poke through the interior side of the roof deck. Build and Hang the Door Rip -cut a 6-foot 2 x 3 board to size at 11/4 inches thick x 2 inches wide using a circular saw and a straightedge guide (or use a tablesaw). Cut a 3/4 x 3/4-inch rabbet along one edge of the ripped board using a circular saw or a ronter and Winch rabbeting bit. Using the prepared board, cut the doorframe sides and top and bottom to length, mitering their ends at 45 degrees. Dry -assemble (no glue) the doorframe and clamp it both directions. Drill two countersunk pilot holes at each corner of the frame, angling the holes through the top/bottom piece and into each side piece (photo 10). Make sure the holes do not interfere with the rabbet on either piece. Note: If you don t want to rabbet the doorframe pieces, you can cut the glazing a little larger and mount it to the back side of the assembled frame (see Making Doors with [or without) Rabbets on page 34). Unclatnp the frame pieces, apply glue to the ends of each piece, and assemble the frame with two 13/4-inch wood screws at each joint. Cur the glazing stops from %a x Winch stock, mitering both ends at 45 degrees. Measure the width and height of the doorframe opening, measuring from rabbet to rabbet. Subtract 1/s inch from each dimension, then cut the door glazing to this size (see Cutting and Drilling Plastic Glazing on page 35). You will install the glazing after finishing the project. Mount the door hinges to the doorframe using the provided screws. You can hang the door from either side of the structure, depending on which way you want the door to swing. Mount the door to either of the front corner trim pieces, aligning the bottom of the doorframe with the bottom ends of the front corner trim. Complete the Project Remove The door and hinges. Finish the project as desired (see Painting & Staining on pages 39-42 for finishing tips). When the finish is completely dry, fit the glazing into the rabbets of the doorframe and secure it with the glazing stops, nailed at each end and in the center with a 11/4-inch finish nail. Rehang the door as before (photo 11).