HomeMy WebLinkAboutEncroachment and Revocable Permit - 1425 E. LaSalle Ave1316 COUNTY -CITY BUILDING
227 W. JEFFERSON BOULEVARD
SOUTH BEND, INDIANA 46601-1830
PHONE 574/235-9251
FAx 574/235-9171
CITY OF SOUTH BEND TAMES MUELLER, MAYOR
BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS
February 25, 2025
Ms. Danielle Reist
1425 E. LaSalle Ave.
South Bend, IN 46617
reistdanielle(a6 gmail.com
RE: Encroachment into Public Right -of -Way — 1425 E. LaSalle Ave.
Dear Ms. Reist:
At its February 25, 2025, meeting, the Board of Public Works denied your request for
the installation of a Little Free Library at 1425 E. LaSalle Ave. Property behind sidewalk
needs to be unobstructed and would be better suited outside of the ROW. Enclosed please find
copies of the permit and application.
The encroachment will be permitted to remain and continue until such time as the
Board of Public Works of the City of South Bend shall determine that such encroachment is in
any way impairing or interfering with the highway or with the free and safe flow of traffic
thereon. Said encroachment shall not in any way prejudice or preclude the City's rights with
respect to the future use of that portion of the right-of-way.
If you have any further questions, please call this office at (574) 235-9251.
Enclosures Sincerely,
TH/hh
/s/ Theresa Heffner
Theresa Heffner, Clerk
ELIZABETH A. MARADIK JOSEPH R. MOLNAR GARY A. GILOT MURRAY L. MILLER BREANA N. MIcou
� �Spi3TH B.�O
W rLncu 'a
1865
INTEROFFICE MEMORANDUM
BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS
DATE: February 3, 2025
TO: Kyle Ludlow, Engineering Department
Derek Erquhart, Fire Department
Chris Dressel, Community Investment
FROM: Theresa Heffner, Clerk theffner south bend in. com
SUBJECT: ENCROACHMENT RECOMMENDATION
Revocable Encroachment — Danielle Reist (Little Free
Library)
LOCATION: 1425 E. LaSalle Ave.
PLEASE INSERT YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS IN THE APPROPRIATE FIELD BELOW,
BASED ON THE FOLLOWING CRITERIA:
1. It has been determined that this encroachment in no way impairs the highway or
with the free and safe flow of traffic thereon, and it is recommended that the
encroachment be permitted to remain.
2. Said encroachment shall not in any way prejudice or preclude the City's rights with
respect to the future use of the portion of the right-of-way.
PUBLIC WORKS: Unfavorable, property behind sidewalk is unobstructed and would not
encroach into ROW. Would be better placement.
COMMUNITY INVESTMENT: Unfavorable. Encourage available location outside of the ROW
with access to the sidewalk.
FIRE: Favorable Recommendation (does not affect FD)
�- ENCROACHMENT APPLICATION
Ti J
�- City of South Bend - Board of Public Works
227 W . Jefferson Boulevard, Ste.1316
. " Y South Bend, IN 46601
PROPERTY OWNER INFORMATION:
Name of Business/Homeowner: Van;r±LLe. 4 e1 +
Address: 141 J S !✓ 1,4 s-x!!e a ve
City/State/Zip: 13eno- S `/ Ll 6�; 17
Phone: f -7-!- ?o q - 46 9S Email: 4�e + S* c> aQ i,`e!!e c. ! nmo,4 - Cob
ENCROACHMENT INFORMATION:
Location of Encroachment: _Trey L,, C-c�a •f- of d.S !=' L aS4Ile
Encroachment Description: E`-i��e C=re� L.'�,r n,r 'c, "e --Tee
CL Road to R/W Line: Tree lct.w,4 ,,s co0afi14 rw&-�e Size of Encroachment: on Qt 3
h e�o Is P 0.$4-
Distance of R/W: w0"i v 054 a d4ic� -yM snde�/kAmount in R/W: X"V2'
INSTALLER'S INFORMATION:
Business Name: Y),,.feCle ke &4-
Address: t; /tea -411e AL.,,,e-
City/State/Zip: �oe,„d ZP q (a 6/ i
Phone: 5741- 343 Email: ���.`S F'c�a�PeG/�� u ma./1. co rn.
Signature:4,
Printed Name: VJa tWi e Yeer`s 4-
INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS WITH YOUR APPLICATION:
C"Photos of the area where encroachment will take place.
I�Plans and Specifications
13"tompleted Agreement
AFFIRMATION
I, the undersigned do hereby certify and affirm that all the information given in this
application is accurate and correct. I understand that encroachments must in noway impair
the highway or free and safe flow of traffic thereon and may be revoked at any time.
Signature of Applicant: �a„""L Date:
Printed Name of Applicant: U 4wfe6[e 1�e4s+ _
REVOCABLE PERMIT
n. f RECOGNITION OF ENCROACHMENT UPON CITY OF SOUTH BEND -CONTROLLED PROPERTY
AND PROVISIONS ALLOWING TEMPORARY CONTINUANCE OF SAME
R
I�x
Company/Homeowner Name OoA,`e lLL fLe i~ L , hereafter, the "APPLICANT."
The encroachment will be permitted to remain and continue under the following terms and conditions:
1) Until such time as the BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS ("BOARD") of the CITY OF SOUTH BEND ("CITY") shall
determine that such encroachment is in any way impairing or interfering with the highway or with the free and
safe flow of traffic thereon;
2) Said encroachment shall not in any way prejudice or preclude the CITY'S rights with respect to the future use of
the portion of the right-of-way;
3) The encroachment as it now exists shall in no manner be added to or enlarged in its present scope or dimensions;
4) In the event of change of ownership of the fixture or any other item of personal property which constitutes the
aforesaid encroachment, this permit shall become null and void;
5) The CITYshall not be liable to APPLICANTfor any damages caused to APPLICANTthat arise out of or is incidental
to any activity and/or incidences authorized by this permit;
6) In consideration of the granting of this Permit by the BOARD, APPLICANT shall indemnify, hold harmless and
defend the CITY from and against any and all actions or causes of action which the CITY may suffer or incur by
reason of bodily injury, including death, to any person or persons, or by reason of damage to or destruction of any
property, includingthe loss thereof, arising out of or in any manner connected with any activity and/or incidences
authorized by this permit and/or any activities and/or incidences incidental thereto, or which the CITY may
sustain or incur in connection with any litigation, investigation, orother expenditures incidental thereto, including
any suit instituted by the CITY to enforce the obligation of this agreement of indemnity.
It is the intent of the parties hereto that the APPLICANT shall indemnify the CITY under this indemnification
clause to the fullest extent permitted by law, except that APPLICANT shall not indemnify CITYfor any damage or
expense caused by the sole negligence of the CITY.
This approval shall be binding upon everyone past or present, claiming any interest in and to the aforementioned
encroachment.
ACCEPTANCE OF TERMS AND CONDITIONS
I accept and agree to be bound by all of the terms and conditions of this permit.
CITY OF SOUTH BEND, INDIANA
BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS
1*tLa
Elizabeth A. Maradik, President
Gfs.1-rit�
Gary A. Gilot, Member
f�2wy L
Murray L. Miller, Member
Submitted By: ►i 4�,'e�iL ��
Signature: �L
Date:
1/ V T t
Joseph R. Molnar, Vice President
Breana Micou, Member
(,, //.
Attest: Theresa M. Heffner, Clerk
Date: February 25, 2025
�iAI ell e
Itmia horn to uq afapm a^td& gaze !,Ibia f, ompap 1.56.
Cedar Roof Basic
IItis tine structure is named for its attractive roof made from
Tough cedar siding, Its also one of the fcw• de>i; ris With a
gable roof and a door under The roof rave rather Than on the
gable cud,'11, is gives it a disc i oct'ive look and makes it easier
to access the interior space,
-Ihe roofing material is beveled siding, also called lap
siding or clapboard. Tt is tapered so the bottom edge is
thicker than the top edge. Each piece overlaps the piece
below to create a stepped .shingle ellect. Traditional cedar
siding has a .smooth side and a rough side. "Ihe rough side
usual],, feces out and looks best tchen finished with a stain
or even a clear coat (see Painting & Staining on page 39) to
retain The natural grain and coloring. If you prefer to paint
the roof, you might install [lie boards with The smooth side
up for a cleaner look.
Another option for this prnjcct is To I— sah'aged siding or
lumber for the roofing or any of die trim derails. Since The
main .structure is a basic and easy -To -build plywood box, its
up to the Tooling and ourn to provide extra character. Don't
be afraid to get crcarlce!
INSTRUCTIONS
Cut the Plywood Parts
Cur The .side panels, front panel, back panel, base, and
roof deck pieces m size using a circular sass'or jigsaw, All
pieces are rectangular except lit the side panels, which hate
triangular LOP ends. 'I he ronf deck pieces get a bevel along
one long edge after the Pieces are cut to size:
'io lay ouT The nian7ular cuts on each side panel, mark
the center of one of the short sides, then snake a mark 45!u
inches dmvu each side edge. I)—, a line from each side mark
ro The center mark. (.'ur along the lines.
To make the bevel cuts nn The roof deck pieces, set up a
straightedge guide (.see Making Straight Cats on page 31) To
CUT s1e inch from one ohthe long edges. Set a circular saw or
jigsaw ro cut a 36-degree bevel, and make the cut (photo 1).
A tablesav, is even better, if you have one.
Cut the Door Opening
'the front panel gets a rectangular curtmT for the door
opening that is 13sa inches wide x 1254 inches tall. Mark
this i2ciangle on the front panel so iris centered side to
side and the holtom of Ihe recrangle is 1"ir, inches from the
I.The bevel on the roof deck will span about half the thickness of the
plywaod,2.Drill a starter hole at each corner, than make 1 he door cutout
wit h a jigsaw, Be sure to cut the narrow sides first. 3. The front and back
panels fit over the sides. and all vertical pieces fit aver the base.
J
0 rctrlAt aaw
)igs.tw
Rmirer and W rablteringhit
(optional)
Clamps
Stralghrnlge
DAI-driver
Drill bits ('.k'. W)
NW-cnnntwink bit
Screnvlrivar bit'
Miter saw or miivr hot
Harmer
TOOLS A. MATERIALS
Nailsei
Caul king gu n
Sand h ig bbwk
4 x W sheet of 4" ph -wood
2 . 2' piece of W piywaad
'A . 5Si x 96' beveled cedar siding
1 7t.x 51A x 48' beveled cedar siding
3¢ x IVI v 96' pine
1% x 49' Pine
GO 2 x i (nomintD x 6' pine
1R x 1 . 96" pine
'A x 14 x 48' ixrsr
CUTTING LIST
(23) 1-9` µnod scnwt
(12) 1' wrxxi tours
(10) 2W finish nails
01) M, finish nail%
(34} 1' aiding nsrls
A x 12 x.1G" act ylw glRcing
(2) vxterior door hi ngex with screws
�Triterpmofuwud glue
Construction adhvsivc
100•grit %anslltalmr
k}T and car pm Winn
Work gloves
MY
FART
DIME14MONS
PCs.
MAYERAL
:A
Side panel
x 13 x 2"'
2
W plyµcmd
8
Ftont panel
Vi x 17% x 151'1s"
1
t74" plywood
C
Rack panel
3A x 17'/a x 15YV
1
L" plywood
P
Base
% x Is, V46 x 13"
1
%/4" Plywood
E
Roofdeck
4 x 21 x low'
2
'A" plywood
F
Roofing
"i x 54 x 21"
G
CXdarsiding
C.
Roofeave trim —rear
I/a x 1r/a x 21"
1
Pine
H
Roof eave trim front
1!a x r/a x 21"
1
Pine
I
Roof -gable trim
Se x VA x 1114'
4
Pine
J
ROON rP
P4 x 2% x 7..2"
1
Pine
K
Fmnt-corn K itim
I% x 1% x IOU'
2
Pine
L
Rear -corner trim —side
lh x 11/2 x 16114"
2
Pine
M
Rear -comer trim —rear
Ih a 1 x OW
2
Pine
H
Base trim —side
M x l x 12W
2
Pine
0
Bacetnm—rear
Yi x I x 11"iC
1
Pine
h
Doorframe—top/bottom
P/4 x 2 x 15"
2
Pine
R
Uantframc—Ade
IA x 2 x 14"
2
Pine
.R
Glazing sto -- to /bottom
%x h x 12W
2
Pine
S
Glazing smpide
4 x h x 11�U,
2
Pine
T
Door glaring
tS x 12 x W
1
Acrylic glazing
i S
fl ?`i ,I �
4. The %z`-wlde rabbet is cut%" deep into It/e" face of the trim material. 5. The rear -comer side p Intts fit otst llte tildes el rho roartttmer «ar piecn.0. The roof
deck panels meet at the roof peak and overhang the box sides equally, 7. Fasten the roofing boards so the lower nails go through the roofing board below.
bottom edge of the panel. Drill a 3/x-inch startei hole (see
Making Curves and Interior Cutouts on page 32) on the
inside of each corner of the rectangle, Then make the cutout
with a jigsaw (photo 2).
Assemble the Box
Apply wood glue to both side edges and the rear edge of the
plywood base and to the rear -side edge of each side panel.
Assemble the base, sides, and back so the base fits inside the
assembly and the back panel firs over The edges of the side
panels. Clamp The parrs together. Fasten the pieces wirh
Three FIX -inch screws along each joint.
Glue the front edges of the base and side panels. Fit
the front panel over the sides and base so all pieces are
flush on the outside and the bottom. Fasten through the
front panel and into the sides and base with three 1-inch
screws along each edge (photo 3).
Prepare the Front -Corner Trim
The two front -corner trim pieces are first rip -cut from
2 x 3 lumber. Then They each get a 1'z z %a-incli rabbet
cut along one long edge, creating a lip that overlaps
the corner of the plywood box (see Making Doors with
[or without] Rabbets on page 34 for help with cutting
rabbets). T}tcy are also mitered on their rop ends at 36
degrees, Its easiest to make the long rip curs and rabbet
on a single piece of 2 x 3, then cut the trim to final size
with a miter saw or miter box.
Cut a 6-foot 2 x 3 roughly in half and set one of the
halves aside; you will use it later for the roof cap, Use a
straightedge guide to rip -cut the 2 x 3 to 17A inches wide
x IIA inches thick. Then, cut a'/z-inch-wide x N-inch-
deep rabbet using a router and'/_ -inch rabbeting hit or a
circular saw and straightedge guide (photo 4). Cut each
trim piece to length, mirering The top end at 36 degrees.
Install the Front -Corner Trim
Apply glue to both sides of the rabbet on each piece of
front -corner trim. Position the trim at the front corner of
the box assembly so he top (mitered) end of the trim is
flush with the angled Top edge of the side panel and the
lip is up against the side panel. Drill '/te-inch pilot holes,
and fasten each trim piece with three 2Y_-inch finish nails
driven through the front of the trim and into the edges of
the side panels. Set the nails with a nail set.
Install the Remaining Box Trim
Cut the rear -corner trim side and rear pieces to length,
mitering their top ends at 36 degrees, The side pieces
are mitered across rlieir IAA -inch faces. The rear pieces
are mitered across rbeir'A-inch edges. Apply glue to The
longer 1-inch-wide face of each rear piece and position
it over the back panel, flush with the outside edge and
bottom of the panel. Fasten each ti im piece with three
1'/a-inch finish nails.
Apply glue To the inside face of each side trim piece and
position it over a rear trim piece so their mitered ends are
flush. Fasten the side trim to the box with Three 1'/s-inch
finish nails (photo 5).
Cut the base trim side and rear pieces to length. Apply
glue to one face of the rear trim and fit it against the back,
between the rear -corner trims and flush with the bottom
of the base. Fasten The rear Trim with Three 1'/4-inch finish
nails. Do the same with the two base trim side pieces,
fitting them between the front- and rear -corner Trims.
Prepare the Roof Deck
Cut the two roof eave trim pieces to length. Glue the
front (r/a-inch-wide) trim to the bottom (square) edge of
one of the roof panels so it is flush with The rop face and
aide edges of the panel; it will overhang The bortom face
of the panel by about'/s inch. Fasten the trim with three
1'/a-inch finish nails,
Glue and nail the rear (1Y inch -wide) cave trim to the
other roof deck panel so the trim is flush with the top face
and side edges of the panel, overhanging the bottom face.
Apply glue to the top edges of The side panels. Fit the
mof deck panels onto The side panels so they meet at
0. Tho gable trim covers the ends of the ewe trim. the roof deck, and the
overlapping portions of the roofing boards. 9. Make opposing 1'/z -deep
bevel cuts to create the V-groove in the roof cap. 10. Drill pilot holes al a 45°
angle forjoiningihe mitered doorframe places wilh screws.
11. Add the door glazing and reinstall the door after finishing the structure.
the roof peak and overhang the side panels equally on both
sides (photo 6). Fasten each roof deck panel to the side
panels with four VA -inch screws.
Install the Roofing
Cut the six roofing boards to length. Rip -cut two of the
boards to width at 43/a inches, ripping about U i nch from the
top (narrow) edge of the beveled siding board. The ripped
boards will go at the top of the roof.
Apply a wavy bead of construction adhesive to the back
side (smooth face) of one of the full -width boards. Position
it at the botrom of one of The roof deck pieces so the roofing
overhangs the bottom face of The cave trim by about 1/e inch.
Nail the roofing board to the roof deck with three pairs of
1-inch siding nails, with one pair about I inch from each
end and one pair in the center. If the nails cause the wood to
split, drill pilot holes for the nails.
Apply a straight bead of construction adhesive near the
top and bottom edges of a second roofing boar[], Place the
board on the rooFdeckso it overlaps the first board by about
13/4 inches (leaving about 33A inches of the lower board
exposed). Nail the second board with three pairs of nails,
as with the first board, but make sure the lower nail in each
pair goes through the first board.
Apply adhesive near the top and bottom edges of one of
the ripped boards, position it so it is Hush with the top edge
of the roordeck, and nail it as with the second board (photo
7). Repeat the same process to install the roofing boards on
the other side of the roof.
Add the Roof Gable Trim
Cut the four pieces of roof gable trim 'to length, mitering the
top ends at 36 degrees. Apply glue to the side edges of the
roof deck panels and outside ends of the roof cave trim. Also
glue the mitered edges of the gable trim.
Position the gable trim in pairs at each end of the roof,
joining the miters together at the peak.'Ihe gable trim at the
rear cave ofthe roofshould be Hush with the bottom edge
and front face of the 11/z-inch-wide cave trim. At the front
cave of the roof, the gable trim will overhang the cop and
bottom edge of the r/e-inch-wide cave trim (photo 8).
Fasten each piece of gable trim to the roof deck (not the
roofing boards) with three 11/4-inch finish nails.
Cut and Install the Roof Cap
Tie roof cap is cut from the remaining piece of 2 x 3 board
(leftover from the front corner trim). It has a V-shaped
groove cut into its bottom face that runs along the entire
length of the board. You can cur the groove with a small
circular saw and a straightedge guide (or use a rablesaw, if
you have one).'Ihis is a tricky cut and is nor recommended
For beginners to try with a full-size circular saw. As an
alternative, you can make 36-degree bevel cuts on two
3/4-inch-thick boards and use waterproofwood glue to join
them to create the V shape.
Set the circular saw blade to make a 3(-degree bevel cur,
11/z inches deep. Position the 2 x 3 on one of its lWinch-
wide edges, and set up a straightedge guide with a scrap
board to support the saw (see Making Straight Cuts on
page 31). Make the first cut from the corner of the
2 x 3 to its center. Rotate the board end -for -end and make
the second cut to meet the first cut at the center of the
board's thickness (photo 9).
Cut the roof cap to length. Sand the four corners of the
board to create a slight chamfer (beveled edge) for a finished
look using sandpaper and a sanding block. (You can also
use a tablesaw to cut the corner chamfers.) Apply a bead
of construction adhesive to both sides of the V-groove.
Position the cap at the roof peak so it is Hush with the
outside faces of the roof gable trim at both ends. Drill
Sib -inch pilot holes and nail the cap to the roof with four
29z-inch finish nails, angling the nails so they don't poke
through the interior side of the roof deck.
Build and Hang the Door
Rip -cut a 6-foot 2 x 3 board to size at 11/4 inches thick x
2 inches wide using a circular saw and a straightedge
guide (or use a tablesaw). Cut a 3/4 x 3/4-inch rabbet along
one edge of the ripped board using a circular saw or a
ronter and Winch rabbeting bit. Using the prepared
board, cut the doorframe sides and top and bottom to
length, mitering their ends at 45 degrees.
Dry -assemble (no glue) the doorframe and clamp it
both directions. Drill two countersunk pilot holes at
each corner of the frame, angling the holes through the
top/bottom piece and into each side piece (photo 10).
Make sure the holes do not interfere with the rabbet on
either piece.
Note: If you don t want to rabbet the doorframe
pieces, you can cut the glazing a little larger and mount
it to the back side of the assembled frame (see Making
Doors with [or without) Rabbets on page 34).
Unclatnp the frame pieces, apply glue to the ends of
each piece, and assemble the frame with two 13/4-inch
wood screws at each joint.
Cur the glazing stops from %a x Winch stock, mitering
both ends at 45 degrees. Measure the width and height of
the doorframe opening, measuring from rabbet to rabbet.
Subtract 1/s inch from each dimension, then cut the door
glazing to this size (see Cutting and Drilling Plastic
Glazing on page 35). You will install the glazing after
finishing the project.
Mount the door hinges to the doorframe using the
provided screws. You can hang the door from either side
of the structure, depending on which way you want the
door to swing. Mount the door to either of the front
corner trim pieces, aligning the bottom of the doorframe
with the bottom ends of the front corner trim.
Complete the Project
Remove The door and hinges. Finish the project as desired
(see Painting & Staining on pages 39-42 for finishing tips).
When the finish is completely dry, fit the glazing into the
rabbets of the doorframe and secure it with the glazing stops,
nailed at each end and in the center with a 11/4-inch finish
nail. Rehang the door as before (photo 11).
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