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ing failures is caused by dirt contamination before or during <br />assembly. Therefore, the work area should be cleaned before <br />starting disassembly, and new or re -usable parts protected <br />during progress of the work. <br />In the following outlines of repair procedures, numbers <br />shown in brackets () correspond to the Item Numbers used <br />in assembly drawing, Figure 11 and parts list, Table 6. It <br />is recommended that the procedures be studied carefully <br />and completely, with frequent reference to the drawing, <br />before starting work. This will produce better efficiency <br />through an understanding of what work is to be done, and <br />the order of doing it. Before disassembly, mark all parts so <br />that they may be returned to original locations or relative <br />positions. <br />Requirements for special tools will depend on the work <br />to be done. <br />Design of the RCS blowers is basically simple, and most <br />repair operations are straightforward. For this reason, the <br />following procedures are intended mainly to indicate a <br />preferred order of work and to call out points to be observed. <br />Where special operations are required, detailed coverage <br />is given. <br />DISASSEMBLY OF GEAR END <br />1. Drain oil completely from the gearbox sump by remov- <br />ing plug (22) in bottom of the beadplate (2). <br />2. Remove all capscrews (26) holding the gearbox except <br />the upper two. Bump the gearbox to break the joint, <br />remove the last two capscrews and lift off the gearbox <br />carefully in the horizontal plane avoiding contact with <br />the gears. Remove gasket (7). <br />3. Be sure that each gear is marked for return to the same <br />shaft and that the gears have match marks for the teeth <br />alignment. Wedge the impellers as shown in Fig. 6; then <br />Figure 6— Impeller Timing Viewer# From Gear End <br />remove the gear capscrew (31) and washer (69). Remove <br />the drive gear first as described below. <br />Install gear back up plate per Fig. 7 at the end of <br />the shaft using the same gear capscrew. Two Grade-8, <br />1/4-10, 3" long capscrews will;be required for gear <br />removal. Oil capscrew threads and install thru the back- <br />up plate and into gear puller. holes, Tighten the <br />capscrews evenly till the gear is unseated from the <br />shaft fit. <br />Caution: The gear may jump off the taper fit, keep <br />hands away from the space between the gear and the <br />back-up plate. Remove the other gear in the same <br />manner. <br />I" DIA. HOLE <br />7,QOD — <br />— <br />2,63� 5.DDq <br />(2) 7/8 DIA. <br />.36 <br />HOLES <br />z.Do <br />MATERIAL- STEEL, 90,000 PSI MIN. YIELD BACK <br />UP PLATE <br />GRADE — 8 <br />3/4-10, 3" LONG <br />CAPSCREWS, <br />QUANTITY — 2 <br />Figure 7 — Gear Removal. <br />4. Loosen bearing clamp plates (34) by loosening cap <br />screws (32). Remove shims (74) and mark them. Remove <br />clamp plates. <br />6. Removal of gear end bearings will require partial <br />disassembly of the drive end. Remove sheave or coupl- <br />ing. Remove the oiler reservoirs. Drain the sumps by <br />removing plugs at the bottom of the oilers. Unscrew <br />capscrews (fit) and remove the drive end sumps. <br />6. Install spacer sleeve and drive end back-up plates per <br />Fig. 8. <br />7. Gear end headplate removal — remove all capscrews <br />holding the headplate to the cylinder. Insert (4) %-11, <br />grade-8 jacking screws in threaded holes in the <br />headplate flange and turn them in evenly. The head <br />Figure 8 — Drive End Shaft Blocking <br />GRAQE - 9, 3/4-10, <br />2" LONG CAP5CsxEw <br />12} REOD. <br />40 PIPE, 7-7/16" <br />LONG, (UAT'L - ST(=EL) <br />7" 7^ . 1" TNICK PLATE, <br />WITH 13/16 CENTER HOLE <br />(2) REOO. tWAT'L - STEELI <br />11 <br />